THIEN IS A PERFUME EVALUATOR IN PARIS. COLTESSE CLIENT WHO BECAME FRIEND OF THE BRAND, HE VISITS US AT THE CASERNE WHERE WE ARE INSTALLED.
HOW ARE YOU? CAN YOU INTRODUCE YOURSELF?
Very well thank you! I am what is called a Perfumery evaluator. With the help of perfumers, I am in charge of the olfactory development for several perfume brands within a large group.
I lived in Nice for 21 years, before coming to Paris for my Master of Perfumery at ISIPCA and then working.
CAN YOU TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR ART?
It's a big debate but I consider perfume as a craft rather than an art. Today it exists mainly for its perfuming function, we want to smell good. But the perfume itself is not the main factor of purchase, which is first of all the image it sends back. Who doesn't envy the freedom of Johnny Depp or Julia Roberts? However, its longevity over time and the repurchase by consumers will be the witnesses of the success of the fragrance.
THE SENSE OF SMELL IS PERHAPS EVEN MORE SUBJECTIVE THAN THE OTHERS. HOW DO YOU TAME THIS PARAMETER?
By its mechanism, smell is closely linked to emotions and memory. It is cultural and indeed subjective even if we learn during our studies to break down and describe smells in an objective way in order to have a common basis for discussion. I like lilies because my mother used to bring them home whenever they were in season, the smell of cold cigarettes doesn't bother me so much because my father smokes, it is familiar to me. I am familiar with Asian fruits, for example, but not with South American fruits. The important thing in my job is to stay open, to always learn and discover new things, new smells, new combinations, not to stay in your comfort zone. Nothing is ever taken for granted.
CURIOUS TO HEAR YOUR SOURCES OF INSPIRATION...
I like the counterculture, the avant garde, that question everything around us, that try to go further. I like Rick Owens for his brutalism, Ann Demeulemesteer for her gothic and bohemian side, Undercover for the youth culture.
In a cliché way, Japan inspires me a lot. The devotion and dedication in everything they do is fascinating.
Also, I saw The Matrix when I was 5 years old and my whole aesthetic revolves around it.
BEFORE BECOMING A CLOSE FRIEND OF COLTESSE, YOU WERE ALREADY A CUSTOMER AND YOU CAME WITH A SPECIAL ORDER: A LONG VERSION OF A BLACK FENTÉ COAT. THIS LONG VERSION WAS THE BEGINNING OF THE CURRENT FENTEÉ 125. AFTER SALES SERVICE, HOW IS YOU COAT 2 YEARS LATER?
Very well, it has become softer with time, which makes it even more comfortable while keeping its structure. I'm really glad we did this project together.
WHAT IS YOU RELATIONSHIP WITH THE GARMENT?
The garment is for me an extension of my personality, I try to show a part of me through it. I try to show my tastes, my inspirations, my values. It helps me to represent who I am and who I would like to be.
In everything I do, I try to be as honest as possible with myself and my value system. I necessarily consume too much when I buy a piece of clothing, so I might as well try to be as virtuous as possible. This is also what I like about Coltesse, the short circuit, the MiF production, the proximity.
ANY CURRENT OR FUTURE PROJECTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO TELL US ABOUT?
I would like to have my own candle brand one day!
IF YOU HAD TO ADD A SONG TO OUR PLAYLIST OF THE MONTH?
Avant qu'il n'y ait le monde of Feu! Chatterton
A MANTRA TO FINISH ?
"Don't believe the hype" - Alex Turner